The Guide Kit
The Dunning-Kruger effect is a cognitive bias that occurs when people with little knowledge or skill in a certain area overestimate their abilities - Google AI.
As soon as we know a little, we think we know a lot. I try to spend my free time as a guide thinking about improving. This often means examining more experienced guides and comparing their practices to mine. Often, I find that I’m carrying much, much more than they are. While this could be a result of their ability to do more with less, I do think that there’s a lesson to be learned from this. I often see my peers carrying a full rack of cams, lockers, alpines, various slings, and other items, even while simply managing the bottom of a site. Of course, you could be prepping to climb another route— but if you’re just managing the bottom of a site, why have so much clutter?
Our harness is our desk. It’s our office; it needs to be organized and neat. If you need to launch into a rescue, there are only a few things that you’ll need, and almost none of them will be cams or a single shoulder-length sling.
I’ve been working on reducing my guide kit to the following items:
A first-aid kit. This should be in your pack, every time.
A Grigri on a freino. I know it cost $40, but I like it. Belaying/lowering from above is much nicer with the friction spur already attached. Your Grigri is going to be the bread and butter of any rescue/pick off/belay takeover.
A prusik loop. From guide security to rope ascension, you need one of these.
A tube-style belay device with a guide mode feature + 2 carabiners. This can be for rappelling, belaying, ascending a rope, teaching, etc.
A quick note is that we often lean towards using a Grigri or assisted braking device for our clients or while teaching. A tube-style device is cheaper and, therefore, much more attractive to a prospective climber. Teaching fundamentals on a tube will create good habits for later when they get a Grigri or similar. Just use a backup for the belay if you have someone available.
A double-length sling on a locker or non-locker. A double-length sling can be used as a ground anchor, a foot stirrup, or a rappel extension.
Three extra lockers— this can be for any number of uses.
Gloves. You’ve gotta protect those hands when belaying all day.
That’s all. Everything else goes in my pack or wherever I’ve put my things for the day. If I use my double length for a ground anchor, I add another to my person. With this kit above, I can do almost anything I need for a bottom-managed site. If I’m on a top-managed site, I might consider adding a cordelette.
I think that as instructors and guides, we should constantly challenge ourselves to be more efficient and competent at our jobs. We work in an industry that is constantly evolving. Let me be clear: I don’t want people to slim down if that causes a sacrifice of speed when time is of the essence. But carrying less can limit indecision, increase mobility, and create more opportunities for clients to climb and learn without you faffing about. Just food for thought.
Onwards,
Michael
